Skincare that builds confidence must first recognise whose confidence has historically been overlooked. For too long, beauty has favoured narrow standards, formulations developed for a single skin type, tone, or identity and then marketed to many.

For us inclusive skincare begins not with a marketing brief but with the formulation itself. From active selection and tolerance testing to texture and addressing white cast from SPFs, we work with brands to build products that reflect real users, real diversity, and real skin science. 

Representation Starts Way Before the Shelf 

Many of the industry’s inclusivity gaps can be traced back to development pipelines that didn’t account for every user. This isn’t just a problem of exclusion — it’s a missed opportunity. Brands that build inclusive products from the inside out can grow their market share thanks to earning loyalty, building trust, and becoming part of someone’s skin journey. 

Inclusive Formulation in Practice 

At THG LABS, inclusive formulation is embedded in our development methodology at ideation stage through to claims substantiation. Here’s what that looks like in practice: 

Testing Across Diverse Skin Tones: 

Finished formulations are tested across a wide range of skin tones and Fitzpatrick types 

• SPF and tinted skincare, where tone-matching and white cast avoidance are critical 
• Brightening products, where over-aggressive ingredients can sensitise darker skin 
• Hyperpigmentation products which require precise calibration to avoid rebound hyperpigmentation 

We also consider the structural differences in melanin-rich skin, including: 

• Lower ceramide levels 
• Higher trans-epidermal water loss 
• Greater post-inflammatory reactivity

This allows us to tailor formulas that are both safe and effective for their target audience.   

Life-Stage Responsive Development 

From our teenage years to post-menopause, skin evolves and formulations have to factor for this. We support brands with: 

• Age-agnostic skincare that supports the skin barrier at any stage 
• Hydrators for dryness that don’t rely on heavy oils or occlusives 
• Gentle actives that deliver results for maturing skin without triggering irritation 

Confidence in skin is often lowest during times of change and formulations that respond with intelligence and empathy become tools of resilience as well as providing cosmetic benefits.  

Cultural Awareness and Ingredient Integrity 

Inclusivity also applies to how and where we source and speak about ingredients. We work with suppliers who provide transparency on ethical sourcing, traceability, and the social context of hero ingredients so that inclusive beauty doesn’t come at the cost of someone else’s wellbeing. 

The Technical Backbone of Inclusive Innovation 

Inclusive skincare must still be clinically robust, backed by science not assumption. That’s why we’re able to tailor our approach to integrate: 

• Clinical trials on diverse skin types and ages 
• Consumer panel feedback across a representative spectrum 
• Inclusive claims frameworks that hold up to regulatory scrutiny globally 
• Smart actives that adapt to individual skin needs, such as biomimetic peptides, biotech actives, and complexes that respect a diverse microbiome. 

Formulating for Every Face 

When inclusivity is embedded in the formulation process rather than retrofitted into the marketing, skincare becomes truly empowering with products that work, that see people, support them and celebrate their individuality.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kristal Goodman  
Head of Product Innovation, THG LABS 

With over 25 years’ experience in the beauty industry and UK cosmetics manufacturing, Kristal Goodman has cultivated a unique blend of scientific expertise, creative vision, and strategic thinking to spearhead what are recognised as some of the beauty industry’s most much-loved, must-have products.  

In her role as the Head of Product Innovation, Kristal’s influence is best demonstrated in THG LABS dedication to pushing boundaries. She is the driving force behind the integration of upcycled ingredients, advanced biotechnology, and other impactful emergent global beauty trends that ensure THG LABS remains at the cutting-edge of beauty innovation. Her knowledge of actives and their benefits is encyclopaedic which fuels her talent for translating ingredient ideas and science into concepts that give each product a formula and a story consumers fall in love with. 

A member of THG LABS Eco Leadership Team and a devoted advocate for formulating sustainably, Kristal adopts a holistic approach to product development, believing that truly innovative beauty products are those that address the multifaceted needs of today’s consumers while better respecting the world around us.