Hyperpigmentation – one of the most common and complex skin concerns worldwide. It touches individuals across all ethnicities and skin types, manifesting in forms ranging from sunspots and melasma to post-inflammatory dark marks. Thankfully as an industry, the trend has moved beyond outdated concepts towards scientifically advanced, ethically positioned solutions that promote healthy, even-toned, radiant skin. 

Through the lens of skin biology, innovation, and holistic wellbeing, in this article our Head of Product Innovation, Kristal Goodman, and our R&D Head, Kirsty Gainey, explore the causes of hyperpigmentation, the latest ingredient technologies, emerging research, and the best practices for safe, effective solutions that are helping to define the new science and new responsibility behind hyperpigmentation skincare.  

Causes, Mechanisms, and Types of Hyperpigmentation  

Hyperpigmentation is a broad term that describes areas of the skin that become darker than the surrounding tissue. It occurs when excess melanin, the pigment responsible for skin, hair, and eye colour, is produced and deposited unevenly in the skin. 
While often harmless, hyperpigmentation can be a significant cosmetic concern, impacting confidence and overall perception around skin quality. 

As cosmetics scientists, understanding the biological processes behind pigmentation, and what disrupts them, is fundamental to creating effective, targeted solutions. 

The Biology Behind Pigmentation 

Melanin is synthesised by specialised cells known as melanocytes, located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Through a process called melanogenesis, melanocytes convert the amino acid tyrosine into melanin via a series of enzymatic reactions predominantly regulated by the enzyme tyrosinase. 

Melanin is then packaged into vesicles called melanosomes and transferred to neighbouring keratinocytes. These pigmented keratinocytes eventually migrate to the surface of the skin, determining overall skin tone and contributing to natural photoprotection against UV radiation. 

When this highly regulated process becomes dysregulated, due to external insults or internal triggers, localised overproduction of melanin can occur, leading to hyperpigmented patches. 

Key Triggers of Hyperpigmentation 

1. UV Radiation 
   UV exposure is the primary external trigger. It stimulates melanogenesis as a natural defence mechanism but, over time, causes uneven melanin distribution and visible discoloration. 
    
2. Inflammation 
   Skin trauma, acne, eczema, or aggressive cosmetic treatments can provoke an inflammatory response, leading to Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) as the skin heals. 
    
3. Hormonal Fluctuations 
   Hormones, particularly oestrogen and progesterone, can stimulate melanocyte activity. This mechanism underpins conditions like melasma, often associated with pregnancy, contraceptive use, or hormonal therapies. 
    
4. Genetic Predisposition 
   Individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Types IV–VI are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation, particularly PIH.
    
5. Environmental Stressors 
   Pollution and visible light (including high-energy visible blue light) have emerged as contributors to pigmentation irregularities, due to oxidative stress and inflammatory pathways.   

Types of Hyperpigmentation 

Understanding the nuances between different types of hyperpigmentation is crucial for designing tailored treatment protocols: 

 Why Certain Skin Tones Are More Prone to Hyperpigmentation 

Melanocyte density is relatively constant across all skin tones, but individuals with deeper skin tones have larger, more active melanocytes that produce more melanin. This robust melanin activity makes the skin more reactive to inflammatory or hormonal triggers, resulting in a greater tendency to develop long-lasting pigmentation. 

Additionally, the appearance of pigmentation can differ depending on background skin colour, which impacts both diagnosis and how to target it. Tailoring interventions to different skin tones is essential to achieving safe, effective outcomes without causing further dyspigmentation. 

Ingredient Technologies for Hyperpigmentation: Actives, Advances, & Innovations 

Effectively managing hyperpigmentation requires a scientific, multi-targeted approach to disrupt melanin overproduction, inhibit melanocyte activation, accelerate cell turnover, and prevent oxidative damage. 

Modern cosmetic science has evolved to embrace a diverse toolkit of clinically backed and emerging actives designed to tackle hyperpigmentation safely across all skin tones. 

Here, we explore the key ingredient technologies and the science behind their efficacy. 

1. Gold-Standard Cosmetic Actives 

Retinoids (Tretinoin, Retinol, Retinaldehyde) 

• Retinoids stimulate cell turnover, fading pigmented cells more quickly and reducing melanin granule transfer. 
• They also improve skin texture and tone uniformity, often used synergistically with other brightening agents. 

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid and Derivatives) 

• A potent antioxidant that neutralises oxidative stress while inhibiting tyrosinase activity. 
• Stabilised derivatives like sodium ascorbyl phosphate and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid offer enhanced stability and skin penetration for long-term use. 

2. New-Generation Brighteners 

Tranexamic Acid 

• Originally used to treat excessive bleeding, tranexamic acid has emerged as a highly promising agent for hyperpigmentation, especially melasma. 
• It works by inhibiting the plasminogen/plasmin pathway, which indirectly reduces melanocyte stimulation. 

Alpha Arbutin 

• A naturally derived molecule that releases hydroquinone slowly and safely in the skin, inhibiting tyrosinase without the irritation risk associated with pure hydroquinone. The SCCS has determined it is safe up to 2% in facial products and limited to 0.5% in body care products. Although it has lower irritation potential, it is not generally recommended for people with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema or psoriasis.  

Kojic Acid 

• A fungal metabolite that chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase activation, effectively reducing melanin synthesis. 
• Kojic acid is often formulated in combination with other brighteners for enhanced results. 
• While Kojic Acid is not classed as a CMR, the UK has submitted a notification restricting the use of kojic acid in cosmetics, allowing its use in facial and hand products at a maximum concentration of 1% due to potential concerns. 

3. Peptides and Hyperpigmentation 

Peptide technology is advancing rapidly. Specific peptides can inhibit melanogenesis by downregulating genes involved in pigment production. 
Examples include: 

• Oligopeptide-68: Targets the MC1-R receptor to inhibit melanin synthesis. 
• Decapeptide-12: Shown to be particularly effective for melasma and PIH when used consistently. 

These biomimetic peptides offer a gentler option for consumers with sensitive skin or those with higher Fitzpatrick phototypes prone to irritation. 

4. Botanical Alternatives 

The demand for natural brightening solutions has propelled the use of botanical extracts in anti-hyperpigmentation formulations: 

• Licorice Root Extract (Glabridin): Inhibits tyrosinase and reduces inflammation. 
• Mulberry Extract: Reduces melanin production and acts as an antioxidant. 
• Bearberry Extract: A natural source of arbutin for skin-brightening effects.  

5. Antioxidants and Hyperpigmentation Prevention 

Since oxidative stress exacerbates hyperpigmentation, antioxidants play a critical supportive role: 

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. 
• Resveratrol: An antioxidant that downregulates melanin production and provides photoprotection. 
• Azelaic Acid: Reduces inflammation and helps to fade dark spots and even out skin tone.  

6. The Rise of Multitasking Formulas 

Today’s consumers are drawn to streamlined routines, which has driven innovation toward multitasking hyperpigmentation solutions that also address: 

• Barrier strengthening (with ceramides and fatty acids) 
• Hydration (with hyaluronic acid and glycerin) 
• Anti-aging concerns (with peptides and antioxidants) 

Products that combine correction with barrier repair are especially beneficial for those with inflamed or compromised skin, improving compliance and skin health simultaneously. 

Strategies to Target Hyperpigmentation 

Using cosmetic skincare solutions to tackle hyperpigmentation effectively demands a carefully tailored approach that considers the type of pigmentation, the individual's skin tone, underlying triggers, and the desired speed of results. While topical skincare forms the cornerstone of treatment, strict preventative protocols are often necessary to achieve optimal, lasting outcomes. 

1. Topical Treatments: Best Practices and Layering Strategies 

Consistent, well-formulated topical skincare remains the frontline treatment for most types of hyperpigmentation. The goal is to simultaneously inhibit melanin production, accelerate desquamation of pigmented cells, keep skin feeling calm and soothed, and protect against UV-induced recurrence. 

Key topical strategies include: 

• Brightening Actives: (e.g., tranexamic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide) to inhibit melanogenesis. 
• Cell Turnover Boosters: (e.g., retinoids, gentle exfoliating acids) to shed pigmented keratinocytes. 
• Barrier Support Ingredients: (e.g., ceramides, panthenol) to minimise irritation and post-inflammatory responses. 

Layering for Results: 

• Morning: Antioxidants + Brightening Serums + Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen 
• Evening: Retinoid or Exfoliating Acid + Brightening Agents + Soothing Moisturiser 

Consistency over several skin cycles (minimum 8–12 weeks) is crucial to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation. 

2. Chemical Exfoliators 

• Mechanism: Accelerate exfoliation and skin regeneration by causing controlled injury to the epidermis. 
• Common Agents: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, Mandelic acid alongside milder PHAs such as Gluconolactone. Salicylic acid is a BHA and better for unclogging pores as it is oil soluble. 
• Considerations: Superficial, surface exfoliation is safest for darker skin tones; deeper chemical peel type treatments carry a higher PIH risk. Always follow any exfoliation with sun protection due to increased UV sensitivity. 

3. Preventative Approaches 

Daily broad-spectrum photoprotection is an absolute non-negotiable in hyperpigmentation management. UV radiation, visible light, and even infrared light exacerbate pigmentation by stimulating melanogenesis and triggering inflammatory cascades. 

Best Practice: 

• Use SPF 30+ to 50+, broad-spectrum (UVA + UVB), reapplied every two hours when exposed to daylight. 
• Tinted sunscreen formulations containing iron oxides offer added protection against visible light, particularly important for melasma management. 
• Pair sunscreen with antioxidants like vitamin C to provide additional free radical protection. 

Without rigorous sun protection, even the most advanced pigmentation treatments are likely to be ineffective or temporary. 

4. The Role of pH and Penetration Technologies 

Effective pigmentation management requires actives to penetrate the stratum corneum efficiently: 

• Acidic pH formulations (around pH 3–5) often enhance the efficacy of vitamin C, AHAs, and certain retinoids. 
• Delivery systems like liposomes, nanoparticles, or encapsulation can protect sensitive actives and enhance targeted delivery into melanocytes. 

These innovations maximise potency while minimising irritation, crucial when addressing hyperpigmentation. 

Innovation and Emerging Research: The Future of Hyperpigmentation Solutions 

As scientific understanding of skin biology advances so too does our ability to tackle hyperpigmentation in increasingly precise, effective, and ethical ways. Today’s innovation pipeline points toward nuanced, multi-pathway interventions that combine efficacy with safety, personalisation, and inclusivity. 

Microbiome and Hyperpigmentation: A New Perspective 

Emerging research suggests that the skin microbiome, the vast ecosystem of bacteria, fungi, and viruses living on the skin, may influence melanocyte activity and skin tone uniformity. 

• Certain commensal bacteria may produce metabolites that modulate melanogenesis. 
• Dysbiosis (imbalance of the microbiome) could exacerbate inflammatory pathways linked to pigmentation disorders such as PIH. 
• Development of postbiotic and probiotic skincare solutions aimed at rebalancing the microbiome to support more even pigmentation. 
• Leveraging microbiome-derived bioactives as novel pigmentation modulators.  

Smart Delivery Systems: Boosting Efficacy and Minimising Irritation 

Traditional pigmentation actives can struggle with stability and penetration challenges. New delivery technologies aim to overcome these limitations. 

Key Innovations: 

• Encapsulation technologies (e.g., liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, niosomes) protect sensitive actives like vitamin C and retinoids from degradation, while enhancing their penetration. 

Targeted delivery systems that release actives only at melanocyte-rich zones, minimising exposure to surrounding healthy cells and reducing irritation. 

Hyperpigmentation and Holistic Skin Health: Beyond the Surface 

Hyperpigmentation is often perceived as a superficial concern — an aesthetic issue of uneven skin tone. However, as scientific understanding deepens, it's increasingly clear that pigmentation irregularities are often a reflection of broader biological imbalances, particularly involving inflammation, barrier integrity, and internal health. 

Taking a holistic approach to skin health offers new opportunities and routes for innovation. 

1. Inflammation’s Role in Triggering Pigmentation 

Inflammation, whether acute or chronic, is a key driver of pigmentation disorders. The inflammation cascade means: 

• Skin injury or irritation stimulates the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines. 
• These cytokines activate melanocytes, causing an upregulation of melanin production as part of the skin's natural defence mechanism. 
• In individuals predisposed to hyperpigmentation (especially those with darker skin tones), even minor inflammation can lead to significant discoloration. 

Barrier repair and soothing actives (e.g., niacinamide, panthenol, madecassoside) are vital components of any approach to target hyperpigmentation. Formulating to calm the skin reduces the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) exacerbation.  

2. The Importance of Strengthening the Skin Barrier 

A compromised skin barrier increases transepidermal water loss (TEWL), promotes inflammation, and reduces the skin’s resilience to external aggressors all of which can trigger or worsen hyperpigmentation. 

Barrier-Boosting Ingredients: 

• Ceramides 
• Fatty acids 
• Cholesterol 
• Squalane 
• Active molecules from Centella Asiatica (CICA) such as Madecassoside  

Brightening ingredients must be balanced with barrier-repair ingredients to ensure long-term skin health, particularly when using exfoliating acids or retinoids that can thin the stratum corneum.  

3. Lifestyle Factors: Pollution, Blue Light, and Hyperpigmentation 

Modern environmental aggressors go beyond UV light alone: 

• Pollution particles induce oxidative stress and inflammatory cascades that can hyperactivate melanocytes. 
• High-Energy Visible (HEV) Blue Light, present in sunlight and, to a lesser extent, emitted from screens and digital devices, has been shown to stimulate melanin production and worsen hyperpigmentation, particularly in darker skin tones.  

Protective strategies to support the skin and help it face these lifestyle challenges include: 

• Sunscreens to block visible light. 
• Antioxidant-rich skincare to neutralise free radicals. 
• Pollution-shielding ingredients like detoxifying plant extracts (e.g., moringa seed extract) or film-forming agents. 

Regulatory, Claims, and Ethical Considerations in Hyperpigmentation Products 

As scientific innovation in hyperpigmentation management advances, so too does the responsibility to market these products ethically, legally, and with a commitment to inclusivity. Hyperpigmentation concerns are deeply personal, and brands must navigate both the regulatory frameworks and the social impact of how they communicate and educate.  

• Products targeting hyperpigmentation often fall under strict regulatory scrutiny, given historical concerns over misleading claims, safety risks, and cultural sensitivities. As with all products, ensure claims are truthful, not misleading, and backed by robust scientific data (e.g., clinical trials, instrumental measurements, consumer studies). 
• Hyperpigmentation is often chronic and can be slow to improve and as part of a commitment not to mislead, it’s really important to set realistic timelines and transparent expectations helps build consumer trust and reduces the risk of dissatisfaction or reputational damage. Clearly communicate expected results (e.g., "visible improvement in 8 weeks with consistent use") and avoid exaggerated claims like "instant disappearance" of dark spots without strong clinical backing. 
• To substantiate claims, rigorous testing should be conducted: 
  Clinical Trials: Clinical expert evaluation of pigmentation improvements over a defined period. 
  Instrumental Measurements: Colorimetric analysis (e.g., Mexameter, Chromameter) to quantify changes in pigmentation. 
  Consumer Perception Studies: Surveys assessing self-perceived improvement in skin tone, spot visibility, and radiance. 

Finally, testing across Fitzpatrick Skin Types I–VI is especially important to demonstrate inclusivity and safety. 

Consumer Trends and Market Insights: The Strategic Opportunity in Hyperpigmentation Solutions 

The awareness for skin health has grown massively amongst consumers and with it an evolution of hyperpigmentation from a niche concern to a mainstream priority across beauty and personal care categories which in turn presents new commercial opportunities for product development. Here’s a quick snaphot of what’s driving the change: 
 

1. The Rise of Inclusive Pigmentation Solutions for All Skin Tones 

Historically, hyperpigmentation products were often designed primarily for lighter skin types. Today’s consumers demand inclusive solutions that are: 

• Formulated with their specific biological needs in mind. 
• Tested on diverse populations 
• Packaged and marketed with authentic representation. 

Brands that demonstrate a deep, genuine understanding of skin tone diversity can build strong loyalty and leadership in this expanding market. 

 2. Demand for "Glow," "Even Tone," and "Radiance"  

The language of beauty is evolving. Modern consumers are more focused on: 

• A healthy, even complexion. 
• Radiance and luminosity. 
• A natural glow that reflects skin vitality and wellness. 

Key Messaging Themes: 

• "Even Tone" 
• "Healthy Radiance" 
• "Skin Brightening, Not Whitening" 
• "Restoring Skin Harmony" 

 3. The Power of Preventative Skincare 

There is a growing consumer shift toward prevention over correction. 
Instead of waiting for visible pigmentation issues to arise, many are incorporating: 

• Daily sunscreens (SPF 30–50+). 
• Antioxidant serums (e.g., Vitamin C, Resveratrol). 
• Barrier-supportive moisturisers. 

Formulating preventative ranges that educate consumers on protecting skin health proactively not just treating visible damage expands the addressable market beyond those already experiencing hyperpigmentation. 

 4. Popular Formats and Hybridisation  

Today’s consumers want more from every product. Formulas that deliver multiple benefits within a streamlined format meet rising consumer expectations for efficacy, efficiency, and value particularly in premium skincare categories. 

Consumers expect targeted solutions and versatile products that can be customised to suit their routines. : 

• Concentrated serums and ampoules are the gold standard for intensive treatment phases. 
• Spot correctors offer localised solutions for stubborn pigmentation. 
• Tinted SPFs provide daily protection while offering instant skin tone blurring and evening benefits.. 

 Addressing hyperpigmentation is about far more than correcting dark spots, it is about respecting the complexity of skin biology, celebrating the diversity of skin tones, and committing to science-backed, transparent innovation. Brands that champion this holistic, inclusive vision will meet the needs of a growing global market while fostering deeper trust, loyalty, and impact. 

By combining biological insight, cutting-edge research, rigorous testing, and ethical marketing, we can create hyperpigmentation solutions that supports consumers on a journey to healthier, more radiant skin, on their own terms. 

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:  

Kristal Goodman  
Head of Product Innovation, THG LABS 

With over 25 years’ experience in the beauty industry and UK cosmetics manufacturing, Kristal Goodman has cultivated a unique blend of scientific expertise, creative vision, and strategic thinking to spearhead what are recognised as some of the beauty industry’s most much-loved, must-have products.  

In her role as the Head of Product Innovation, Kristal’s influence is best demonstrated in THG LABS dedication to pushing boundaries. She is the driving force behind the integration of upcycled ingredients, advanced biotechnology, and other impactful emergent global beauty trends that ensure THG LABS remains at the cutting-edge of beauty innovation. Her knowledge of actives and their benefits is encyclopaedic which fuels her talent for translating ingredient ideas and science into concepts that give each product a formula and a story consumers fall in love with.  

A member of THG LABS Eco Leadership Team and a devoted advocate for formulating sustainably, Kristal adopts a holistic approach to product development, believing that truly innovative beauty products are those that address the multifaceted needs of today’s consumers while better respecting the world around us. 

Kirsty Gainey, 
Account Head of R&D – THG LABS 

Working at the crossroads of science, trends and innovation, Kirsty’s role as Account Head of Research and Development at THG LABS is key in transforming raw ingredients into award-winning beauty products that fly off the shelves globally. Her philosophy is grounded in a blend of scientific rigor and creative alchemy, driving the development of products that are safe, provide exceptional performance and are launched legally and on time.     

Kirsty’s work involves not just formulating with the very best ingredients but also ensuring that the sourcing of these is considered. This commitment extends beyond the four walls of the lab to include fostering relationships across a spectrum of specialists, from raw material suppliers & manufacturers through to the farmers and thought leaders in sustainability and biotech. It’s this human aspect of her job, and the close- knit nature of the cosmetics industry that she loves, deriving a huge amount of pride and satisfaction in working closely with smaller suppliers and brands and seeing them grow and succeed.  

As a leader in her field, she is also a mentor and passionate about science. At THG Labs Kirsty has set up an educational program for the technical team in collaboration with industry experts to continually help train and engage them. She also sits on the SCS ‘Scrub up on Science’ program which aims to encourage secondary-school children to get excited about chemistry, as well as visiting local schools and colleges when requested to promote cosmetic science.