How strategic formulation builds trust for real-world skin concerns 

Confidence and a flawless complexion don’t necessarily go hand in hand. For many, feeling confident begins with feeling understood. When brands acknowledge the emotional weight that comes with managing skin challenges, and create formulations that offer support without shame, they tap into something powerful: trust. 

From blemishes and redness to hyperpigmentation, sensitivity, hormonal shifts and dryness, these concerns are deeply human. As product developers and beauty manufacturers, our cosmetic scientists, regulatory experts and product teams specialise in creating skincare that addresses these concerns with clinical precision but does so with compassion and integrity. 

Flipping the notion of “Flaw-Fixing” 

Historically, beauty products were marketed to “fix flaws.” Today’s consumers are rejecting that language in favour of brands that meet them where they are, be it managing recurring blemishes or rebuilding skin confidence post-menopause. 

That shift calls for a new approach to formulation. One that combines: 

• Evidence-backed actives that deliver real, measurable change 
• Barrier-supportive bases  
• Textures and usage experiences that offer emotional reassurance 
• Clear, respectful claims that inform without exaggeration 

This is where as manufacturers, it’s our role to go beyond trend-chasing. We have to understand the biological, psychological, and lifestyle contexts of the skin we’re formulating for. 

Targeted Skincare, Thoughtfully Delivered 

Brands partner us to develop solutions for the real-world concerns consumers are trying to manage not mask. Some of the key areas we focus on include: 

Blemishes 

Formulating for blemish-prone skin means more than deploying salicylic acid and hoping for the best. We help brands strike the balance between efficacy and barrier care using: 

• Niacinamide helps balance blemish prone skin, boosting barrier and promote more even skin tone 
• Encapsulated salicylic acid for precision exfoliation with reduced irritation 
• Postbiotic complexes to support microbiome balance 
• Zinc derivatives for support sebum control without dryness 

Our considerations in the development stage take into account layering strategies too, to avoid ingredient overload, a common pitfall for stressed-out skin. 

Hyperpigmentation & Uneven Tone 

For consumers struggling with stubborn hyperpigmentation, confidence can hinge on finding a product that works and doesn't damage melanin-rich skin. We develop inclusive brightening solutions using: 

• Tranexamic acid, a dermatologically supported depigmenting agent 
• Azelaic acid, known for addressing inflammation-driven discolouration 
• Biotech-derived arbutin alternatives for gentle skin tone evening 
•  Iron oxides in tinted SPF formulations, which help protect against visible and UV light (a hyperpigmentation trigger) 

We also ensure that all brightening and radiance solutions are suitable for diverse skin tones. 

Redness, Irritation & Sensitive Skin 

Barrier-compromised skin is often the result of overactive routines or underlying medical conditions like rosacea or eczema. Our formulations for sensitive skin focus on: 

• Minimalist INCI lists, free from common triggers and unnecessary fillers 
• Biomimetic lipids and ceramides to support the barrier 
• Beta-glucans and bisabolol to calm visible redness 
• Microbiome-friendly preservatives that respect skin flora 

For these products, we also tailor sensory elements avoiding (where necessary) fragrance and high-friction textures, to support comfort and repeat use. 

Hormonal Skin & Life Stage Support 

Skin is dynamic. For women, in particular, criteria evolve across the menstrual cycle, through pregnancy, and again during the perimenopausal and post-menopausal years.  

We formulate with sensitivity to ingredient safety, emotional need-states, and long-term skin support. Retinol alternatives, barrier-strengthening peptides, and multi-level hydrators are just some of the tools we bring to this work. 

The Language of Empowerment 

Just as important as the formula itself is the way it’s communicated. Our Regulatory, Innovation and R&D teams work together with brands to ensure that product claims: 

• Support emotional connection without preying on insecurity 
• Are backed by robust data (clinical or consumer trial-based) 
• Can be used safely in all target geographies 
• Avoid outdated or problematic language (e.g. “anti-blemish” vs. “clarifying”) 

Confidence comes not from making people feel flawed but from giving them options that work, feel good, and reflect their skin realities. 

Our Development Philosophy: Results Without Compromise 

When formulating for sensitive or reactive skin concerns, we never compromise on tolerance, efficacy, or stability. Every product is designed to: 

• Deliver measurable results in a user-friendly timeframe 
• Be safe and pleasant for daily use across skin types and tones 
• Maintain performance even when consumers’ skin is in a reactive state 
• Offer clinical credibility while supporting emotional wellbeing 

Whether our teams are developing a blemish-soothing formula, a hyperpigmentation-fading serum, or a barrier-support cream, our focus remains on helping brands help people feel more in control of their skin. 

If your brand is looking to develop targeted skincare that speaks to real concerns with empathy and efficacy, our team can help. With expertise in clinical formulation, skin biology, and regulatory compliance, we’ll support you in building trust through every drop.

Get in touch to discuss your next development brief.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kristal Goodman  
Head of Product Innovation, THG LABS 

With over 25 years’ experience in the beauty industry and UK cosmetics manufacturing, Kristal Goodman has cultivated a unique blend of scientific expertise, creative vision, and strategic thinking to spearhead what are recognised as some of the beauty industry’s most much-loved, must-have products.  

In her role as the Head of Product Innovation, Kristal’s influence is best demonstrated in THG LABS dedication to pushing boundaries. She is the driving force behind the integration of upcycled ingredients, advanced biotechnology, and other impactful emergent global beauty trends that ensure THG LABS remains at the cutting-edge of beauty innovation. Her knowledge of actives and their benefits is encyclopaedic which fuels her talent for translating ingredient ideas and science into concepts that give each product a formula and a story consumers fall in love with.  

A member of THG LABS Eco Leadership Team and a devoted advocate for formulating sustainably, Kristal adopts a holistic approach to product development, believing that truly innovative beauty products are those that address the multifaceted needs of today’s consumers while better respecting the world around us.