In its new phase of scientific sophistication, innovation in the haircare category is targeting measurable, long-term performance that aligns with the evolution in consumer expectation.

In this Q&A, which touches on themes raised in our latest haircare report, Dr. Catherine Leray, Account Head of R&D at THG LABS shares her perspective on some of the most important scientific developments shaping the category, from longevity and cumulative efficacy to scalp biology and emerging bioactive technologies.

Q1) Can haircare products genuinely deliver longevity and how do we substantiate that claim?

Longevity demands a performance architecture. True longevity is built through substantiated, measurable outcomes. For example, bond retention over wash cycles, colour persistence under UV stress and structural integrity over time. We validate these through in vitro testing, and longitudinal fibres analysis.

Q2) Beyond single-application results, what does the next generation of delivery systems look like?

The frontier here is cumulative benefit with efficacy that compounds across repeated use. Single-application efficacy is being superseded by systems that deposit, protect and accumulate. These are scientific architectures that support that label aspiration of long-term vitality.

Q3) Why are we seeing a move away from the fibre itself as the primary target of haircare science?

The direction for haircare is scalp biology, follicular science and sebum chemistry. For decades the fibre was the end point – smooth it, coat it, repair it. Now the most significant breakthroughs are sitting upstream: sebum regulation, follicle cycling, keratinocyte signalling and the dermal-epidermal interface. The fibre is an output. To change the output fundamentally, you have to intervene at the source.

Q4) Where is the most exciting convergence happening at the frontier of haircare formulation science?

Biomimicry and bioactives are having a major influence on what a haircare formula can do. We’re formulating with exosomes, peptides, signalling molecules and prebiotic complexes that communicate with the scalp’s biology rather than merely treating the symptom. We’re really seeing the innovation race intensifying here and where the dermocosmetic influence is most acute.

For a deeper dive on this and other factors impacting the future direction of haircare, check out our latest report.

Dr. Catherine Leray 
Account Head of R&D, THG LABS 

With over 20 years in the beauty industry, Dr Catherine Leray , Account Head of Research & Development at THG LABS, is passionate about the science behind truly effective cosmetic products. Specialised in haircare, she enjoys turning research into practical solutions that deliver tangible results, developing products with proven benefits without overlooking the importance of sensorial experience. Her work is driven by a deep understanding of consumer needs and the scientific principles that make effective haircare possible.