As suncare formulations get smarter and consumer expectations climb, the regulatory landscape underneath them is getting more complex too — and every product has to earn approval in every market where it's sold.

In this instalment of our Suncare 2026 series, we sat down with Sarah Pursey, Head of Regulatory Compliance at THG LABS, to unpack what's really shaping the category from a compliance standpoint — from cross-border ingredient divergence and the rise of misinformation, to how brands can talk credibly about prevention, longevity and skincare-led SPF without stepping outside the lines. Her view: done well, regulation and innovation end up working together, building the trust that gives products real staying power.

Want the full picture? Download the  Suncare 2026 Trend Report for the trends, data and innovation opportunities shaping the category's next phase.

Q1. What regulatory challenge do you believe is having the greatest impact on the suncare category today?

The biggest impact from a regulatory perspective continues to be the divergence between the regulations in different countries and regions regulations, and how in many cases an ingredient that’s approved for one country may not be compliant for use in another. The difference in status of a SPF product, if it is a cosmetic or an over the counter (OTC) or a therapeutic product adds a further layer of complexity for brands that want to market around the world.

Q2. Has misinformation become a genuine concern for the industry?

Yes, because it can influence behaviour.

The challenge is not simply that misinformation exists, but that it can create uncertainty around products that play an important role in public health. Discussions around filter safety, SPF efficacy and UV exposure often lack context or scientific nuance, making it difficult for consumers to distinguish between evidence-based information and opinion.

The industry's responsibility is to continue communicating clearly, accurately and consistently. The industry trade body CTPA have launched a brilliant campaign on sun safety which people can access here.

Q3. Are regulatory frameworks helping or hindering innovation in suncare?

It's a balance.

Regulation exists to ensure products are safe and effective, which is essential for consumer trust. At the same time, bringing innovation to market requires brands to work within established frameworks around ingredients, testing and claims.

The most successful brands are often those that view regulation as part of the innovation process rather than a barrier to it. Understanding the regulatory landscape early allows product concepts to be developed in a way that is both innovative and commercially viable. 

Q4. We're seeing more conversations around longevity and prevention. How does regulation influence the way brands can talk about these benefits?

This is an area where precision matters.

There is growing consumer interest in prevention, healthy ageing and long-term skin health, but brands must ensure the language they use remains consistent with the definition of a cosmetic laid out within regulations, which for SPF could be different by country or region. The opportunity lies in building strong evidence around skin health, protection and cosmetic performance while remaining compliant and credible.

Q5. As SPF becomes more skincare-led, are claims becoming more complex?

Absolutely.

Many modern SPF products deliver multiple benefits beyond UV protection, whether that's hydration, barrier support, radiance or skin comfort. Demonstrating those benefits requires a robust approach to testing and substantiation.

Consumers are becoming increasingly more curious and wanting more from their products, while regulators continue to expect claims to be supported by appropriate evidence. The result is a greater emphasis on generating meaningful data throughout the product development process. 

Q6. What role do you see regulation playing in the future of suncare innovation?

Consumer confidence depends on trust in the regulatory framework and a clear understanding of why it exists. At its core, regulation is designed to ensure products are safe, effective and supported by appropriate evidence. Brands that combine scientific rigour, robust substantiation and transparent communication will be best placed to build lasting consumer trust.

Ultimately, regulation and innovation are not opposing forces. When approached correctly, they work together to create better products and better consumer outcomes.

For a deeper dive on this and other factors impacting the future direction of suncare, check out our latest report.